Portofino

Portofino

In June 2022, I had a dream wedding for a couple of very dear friends in Portofino. I hadn't been to the resort before, and it was the perfect opportunity to get to know Liguria a little better.

I took advantage of the wonderful guide provided by the bride and groom, who know the city incredibly well, and adapted their tips to the Ad Astra guidebook format. In addition to the digital format, they sent each guest a printed version with the wedding's visual identity. Thank you, Carol and Lucas, for an unforgettable weekend and for the wonderful tips!

The Region

Liguria & Portofino

LA RIVIERA DI LEVANTE

Liguria occupies a narrow strip of rocky coastline on Italy's west coast, from the French border to Tuscany, divided by its capital, Genoa, into two distinct regions: the beautiful and touristy Riviera di Ponente in the west, and the Riviera di Levante in the east, where writers and artists have discovered gems like Portofino and Cinque Terre.

The Riviera di Levante, with its unique geography of mountains bathed by the sea, is more dramatic and less developed. It's home to a little bit of everything: from fishing villages like Bonassola to small medieval gems like San Salvatore, and meccas for artists and celebrities like Portofino, to the pleasant Rapallo and the beautiful port of La Spezia. And the small roads interspersed with olive groves and bougainvillea, offering extraordinary views of the Mediterranean, also lead us to the remote villages of Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore, which make up the Cinque Terre.

The Arrival

We took the train from Milan via Milano Centrale to Santa Margherita Ligure - Portofino station, a journey time of around 2 hours and 15 minutes. Alternatively, you can rent a car and enjoy the scenery, making stops, or book a transfer service from Milan.

From other cities in Italy to Portofino by train. For tickets, visit trenitalia.com .

From Milan

Milano Centrale - S. Margherita Ligure/Portofino

Travel time: 2h03min

From Genoa

Genova Brignole Station - S. Margherita Ligure/Portofino

Travel time: 30 min

From Florence

Firenze Campo di Marte - (change at La Spezia Centrale) - S. Margherita Ligure/Portofino

Travel time: 3h

From Rome

Roma Termini - (change at La Spezia Centrale) - S. Margherita Ligure/Portofino

Travel time: 4 to 5 hours

Another option is to take a boat to Portofino and enjoy the coastal views. It's a great option for those already on the Italian coast or in Liguria itself!

Taxi boat options for the route to Portofino:

Portofino Taxi Boat

+39 338 3168058 | portofinotaxiboat.it

Cesare Charter Portofino | Molo Umberto

+39 342 141 5161

Taxi Enrico

Santa Margherita Ligure

+39 339 352 5993

Ferry

traghettiportofino.it

battellierigenova.it

Golfoparadiso.it

The hotel

I stayed in Santa Margherita Ligure, a village near Portofino, where many of the wedding guests were staying. I loved staying there; everything is beautiful and charming, and Portofino is very easy to get to (about a 15-minute drive). We enjoyed the best of both worlds this way.

We stayed at the Imperiale Palace Hotel, a beautiful and classic hotel with 89 well-equipped rooms. Since there were three of us sharing a room, we booked a suite with a bedroom, living room, and two bathrooms. It was super spacious, and we felt perfectly comfortable.

The hotel has a gym, spa, bars and restaurants, a pool, and a private beach. How we went

In the first summer after the pandemic, I thought the service left something to be desired for the standard of the hotel.

Other hotel options:

To Do

Church of San Martino - Built in the 12th century in the Romanesque style but modified in the 19th century, the parish church of San Martino is located in the oldest part of Portofino. It features a major wooden masterpiece by sculptor Anton Maria Maragliano, depicting the Deposition of Christ, and a precious 1679 organ by Tomaso Roccatagliata.

Church of San Giorgio - According to a commemorative plaque inside the building, the church was built in the Romanesque style in 1154 and renovated in the late 17th century. It was completely destroyed during World War II and rebuilt again in the 1950s in the Baroque style. Some of the supposed relics of San Giorgio, patron saint of Portofino, are kept here.

Brown Castle - The first structure of this castle was built in 1425 on Roman foundations to help protect the town from pirate raids. Later, the castle became known as Castle Brown, in honor of Montague Yeats Brown, the British consul in Genoa who owned it from 1867 to 1949. Since 1961, when it was donated to the municipality of Portofino, the castle has hosted events and exhibitions, and the beautiful gardens and terraces surrounding the building offer an extraordinary panorama of Portofino.

Park Museum - International Sculpture Center - Located just below the Church of San Martino, it houses in a small, steep park with a beautiful view of Portofino many sculptural works by contemporary international artists.

La Cervara - The name of this important monastic complex—La Cervara—derives from the Latin "Silvae" (forests), referring to the dense woods on the surrounding slopes. It belonged first to the Carthusian monks, and then to the Benedictines, and reached its peak in the 15th and 16th centuries. Throughout its more than seven centuries of existence, it welcomed illustrious visitors, such as Saint Catherine of Siena and the poet Petrarch. It is currently privately owned. Meticulously restored by the current owners, surrounded by stunning gardens overlooking the sea, La Cervara is today one of the world's most prestigious destinations for events and weddings.

San Fruttuoso Abbey - The Abbey of San Fruttuoso, the center of a fishing village, is located on the shore of a small bay, at the foot of a steep forested slope, making it accessible only by sea or on foot along the trails of Portofino Park.

Since the 6th century, it has housed the ashes of San Fruttuoso di Tarragona, martyred under Emperor Valerian in the 3rd century. Destroyed by the Saracens, the church and adjacent monastery were rebuilt in the 10th century by Benedictine monks.

From the 13th century onwards, the complex became the property of the powerful Genoese family

Doria and, in 1983, it was donated to the Fondo Ambiente Italiano.

Interesting fact: An underwater statue of Christ, made by Guido Galletti, known as "Christ of the Abyss", protector of fishermen and divers, is located at the bottom of the bay, 17 meters below sea level.

Daily trips

Genoa

A city rich in history and art, one of the four powerful maritime republics of the late Middle Ages, Genoa still has many vestiges of its glorious past, such as the home of Christopher Columbus, and beautiful palaces and houses of wealthy merchant families along the Via Indoratori and Via Orefici.

The Duomo of Genoa, an imposing 12th-century building, restored and modified over the centuries, is another testament to the city's commercial power.

The port, rebuilt after World War II, remains fully operational as one of the most important European ports and is also home to the Genoa Aquarium, the largest and most popular in Europe.

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre is a national park recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site that encompasses the small villages of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiora.

The topography of the place ensured the isolation of these small medieval jewels with origins in the Roman Empire and the remains of fortifications that can be seen in all of them bear witness to their violent history, as it was a strategic region in the Mediterranean.

The Genoa-La Spezia railway, built in the late 19th century, broke this isolation, but the villages, considered among the most picturesque in Italy, remain highly preserved, including through vehicle restrictions, which guarantees the region's absolute charm. Its inhabitants still maintain ancient traditions: each of the five villages has a distinct dialect and a proud cultural heritage.

Santa Margherita Ligure

Santa Margherita Ligure is a small town on the Ligurian coast from where we depart to get to Portofino, by boat or bus.

Although it is mostly used as a gateway to its more famous neighbor, it offers us, in addition to the region's beautiful landscapes, some interesting attractions, such as the Castello di Santa Maria Ligure, built in the 16th century to help defend against North African pirates; Villa Durazzo, a splendid 17th-century villa; and the Abbey of La Cervara.

To Eat

Restaurants

Da Puny - Located in Portofino's Piazzetta, where you can admire the hustle and bustle of the port and the square, Da Puny is a family-run restaurant famous for its Ligurian Italian cuisine.

What to order? Pappardelle with pesto and tomato sauce.

+39 0185 269037 | Suggestion: dinner

La Terrazza - Belmond Hotel Splendido - Super charming restaurant, offers the most beautiful view of Portofino Bay at sunset, not to mention fantastic Italian cuisine.

What to order? Taglierino al doppio tuorlo, tartufo nero, spuma al Parmigiano. Drink: Bellini or Spritz!

+39 0185 267801 | Suggestion: dinner at sunset. Make a reservation!

DaV Mare - Belmond Splendido Mare - In this new and exquisite restaurant at the Splendido Mare hotel, led by chef Paolo Rota, dishes are finished live at each table.

+39 0185 267802 | Suggestion: lunch or dinner

Da Giorgio - Located in San Fruttuoso, accessible only by boat, Da Giorgio is a small, typical Italian restaurant with Ligurian tradition, serving pasta and fresh seafood.

What to order? Trophy with pesto and vongole.

+39 0185 771781 | Suggestion: lunch

Trattoria Tripoli - Another family-run restaurant serving Ligurian Italian cuisine in Portofino's Piazzetta, with outdoor seating overlooking the harbor! It boasts one of the best wine lists.

What to order? Mandilli with pesto.

+39 0185 269011 | Suggestion: dinner

Da O Batti - A very old and traditional restaurant in Portofino, famous for its seafood, especially shrimp and crayfish.

What to order? Scampi alla Batti.

+39 0185 269379 | Suggestion: lunch

Da Nicola Pizzeria - Located in Portofino's Piazzetta, the restaurant offers delicious pizzas and a selection of local cuisine.

What to order? Classic margherita pizza.

+39 0185 269575 Suggestion: dinner

Da / Gemelli - Led by twin chefs, the menu is packed with seafood, paired with pasta and wine!

What to order? Signature Cotoletta & Sea Food.

+39 0185 269257 | Suggestion: dinner

Gelato

Gelateria Gepi - One of the best in Portofino, if not the best! With a variety of flavors for takeout or dine-in, as well as delicious Italian specialties like cannoli.

Piazzetta della Magnolia, 2

Gelateria Bar San Giorgio - Charming ice cream shop in the Piazzetta, with fresh flavors selected daily, famous for its traditional Sicilian granitas.

Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta, 43

Gelaterie Marconi - Simple and a little hidden, it has the best salted caramel ice cream. Perfect!

Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta, 43

Calata 32 - Café famous for its whipped cream ice cream, as well as sorbets and crepes.

Calata Marconi, 32

Drinks

Bar Morena da Ugo - Located in Piazzetta.

What to order? Bellini made fresh at your table.

Mariuccia Bar - Bar overlooking the port and Piazzetta.

What to order? Aperol Spritz.

Belmond Hotel Splendido

What to order? Aperol Spritz or Bellini.

To Buy

Modes - Multi-brand stores for women and men in different parts of Portofino, with cool and modern curation, featuring brands such as Jacquemus, The Attico, Isabel Marant, Balenciaga, Amina Muaddi...

Via Roma 44, Portofino

Spinnaker - Multi-brand store with brands like Bottega Veneta, Chloé, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Prada…

In Portofino: Calata Marconi 23/29 Via Roma 34/48

In Santa Margherita: Via Garibaldi 20

Maltempi Boutique - Traditional multi-brand store in Portofino, with impeccable curation of brands such as Chloé, Saint Lourent, Bottega Venetta and Dolce & Gabbana.

Woman - Via Roma 44

The Wedding

I'm leaving a little bit of Carol and Lucas' wonderful wedding in the gallery below!